This is Not a Shoe - Overview

‘This is not a shoe’ is the first assessment task within the Fashion Design Body Artefacts and Accessories course in the Bachelor of Fashion (Design) at RMIT University. The design of the course and associated research project is informed by coordinator Alexandra Sherlock’s doctoral research exploring the material and semiotic affordances of shoes for wearers and producers in processes of being and becoming.

The activity requires students to deconstruct old shoes using manual hand tools and reconstruct the resulting materials into artefacts or accessories to be worn on the body. Marks are awarded for minimal waste and the only materials that can be used are those sourced from the shoes themselves (no adhesives, jewellery findings, paint or decorations).

The activity is designed to enable and enhance a perception of matter and activate a sustainable ‘material-driven’ approach to design. In this context, rather than sourcing materials to realise a preconceived idea, students are encouraged to let the materials guide the design process; the materials themselves becoming unexpected collaborators.

Impacts for Sustainable Design Pedagogy

Research conducted with students undertaking the course has demonstrated the value of the activity for establishing a circular design mindset. First, the difficulties encountered during disassembly encourage a reflection on unsustainable production processes. Perhaps more significantly, through a process of interaction and material transformation new affordances and creative opportunities emerge, enabling students to move away from the notion that materials and artefacts have a beginning (birth) and an end (death).

More than just upcycling, the activity defamiliarises everyday objects, enabling even the most abject, invisible, redundant or mundane of materials and tools to become a creative resource and pathway to innovation. An enhanced recognition of these unconventional materials' endless and rewarding potential overrides their perception as a burden. Research findings suggest that an enhanced ability to see the potential of all materials becomes a burden in itself that encourages a more mindful approach to consumption.

Research Outputs

In April 2022 Alexandra presented early research findings at the annual conference of the International Foundation of Fashion Technology Institutes (IFFTI), held at Nottingham Trent University. The paper was well received and the findings were recognised for their value to circular design methodologies. Access the full conference proceedings here or download the research paper via the button below.

Teaching Resources

The ‘This is Not a Shoe’ workshop has been developed and refined in line with the research design and findings. If you would like to try the activity yourself, the full resources are available via the button below.

These resources are free to use; conditions of use are available on the workshop page. The activity can be conducted independently or as part of a group and can be integrated as a formative or summative assignment within existing course structures.


Selected examples of student work
RMIT 2020-2021

Approval to conduct this research was granted by the Human Research Ethics Committee in the College of Design and Social Context at RMIT in accordance with the Australian National statement on ethical conduct in human research and the Australian Code for the Responsible Conduct of Research. Real names are used to acknowledge intellectual property of creative work and informed consent was provided by all those identified.